How to Choose a T-Shirt: Fabric, Fit & Size

First published: 17 May 2011 | Last updated: 28 September 2026

Choosing a T-shirt is easier when you start with its purpose. A comfortable everyday tee, a quick-drying training shirt and a structured garment for merchandise do different jobs. Once you know who will wear it and where, compare the fabric, fit, weight, colour and measurements of actual products. If you are adding a design, consider the print at the same time.

This guide gives you a practical starting point for choosing a blank T-shirt or one that we print for you. For detailed measurements, use our T-shirt size and fit guide and the chart on the particular product page.

TL;DR: How to choose a T-shirt

• Choose by use: everyday wear, work, sport, an event or merchandise calls for different priorities.
• Choose fabric by feel and activity: cotton is a familiar everyday choice; suitable polyester activewear can dry quickly; blends offer a different balance of properties.
• Choose the intended cut: regular, relaxed, fitted and oversized tees have different shapes. Going up a size does not recreate an oversized pattern.
• Use measurements: compare a shirt you like with the exact style’s size chart; size letters are not universal.
• Consider the print: garment colour, texture, fabric and available print area affect the finished appearance.

On this page

1. Start with how the shirt will be worn

The best shirt is the one people will actually wear. Ask where it will be used, how often it will be washed, whether it needs to feel cool or substantial, and whether you are buying a blank garment or creating a printed one. A promotional shirt worn once may have a different budget and feel from a daily staff uniform.

These are starting points, not fixed rules. Two shirts made from the same fibre can feel very different because of their knit, yarn, finishing and cut.

2. Choose the fabric

Cotton

Cotton is a familiar option for casual shirts, retail-style merchandise and many uniforms. It absorbs moisture and its feel ranges from crisp to soft depending on the yarn and finish. A smooth cotton surface can be a good starting point for detailed printing, but the garment and artwork still need to suit the process. Cotton may shrink or change feel after washing, so follow the care label and check whether the product is described as preshrunk.

Terms such as ring-spun, combed and carded describe yarn or fibre preparation, not a guarantee of a particular result. Combed cotton has had shorter fibres removed; ring-spun yarn is made through a different spinning process. Compare the actual product details and, for an important run, order a sample rather than relying on one label alone.

Polyester

Polyester is common in training and performance T-shirts because suitable constructions can be light, quick-drying and easy to care for. Moisture-management performance depends on the particular fabric and treatment; a shirt described only as polyester is not automatically a technical sports tee. Polyester can also need different printing temperatures and methods from cotton. If the garment will be printed, choose a product offered for that service and check the fabric information first.

Cotton and polyester blends

Blends can combine a cotton-like hand feel with easier care or a different drape. The fibre percentages matter: a cotton-rich tee is not identical to a polyester-rich tee. You may also see CVC, commonly used for cotton-heavy blends, or tri-blend, often a mix of cotton, polyester and a cellulosic fibre such as rayon. Blends are useful options, but do not assume they always resist shrinkage, hold colour or print in the same way. Check the exact garment.

Stretch and other fibres

Elastane adds stretch and recovery to some fitted and active styles. Viscose, modal and other regenerated cellulosic fibres may offer a soft drape. The result depends on the whole fabric and its care requirements. If a special fabric is essential to your order, read the fibre label and product notes rather than relying on a broad category name such as “bamboo”.

Want a closer fabric comparison? Read our cotton versus polyester guide.

3. Choose the fit and shape

Fit changes both comfort and how a printed design sits on the body. The same letter size may look completely different in a regular tee and an oversized tee.

• Regular fit: a balanced shape with room through the body. It is a practical starting point for mixed groups.
• Relaxed fit: more ease through the body, sometimes with a wider sleeve or shoulder.
• Oversized or boxy fit: intentionally wider, often with a dropped shoulder; length varies by style. Choose an oversized pattern if that is the look you want.
• Fitted or shaped fit: closer to the body and sometimes shaped through the waist. Check chest, waist and length rather than relying on a men’s, ladies or unisex label alone.
• Longer, shorter or cropped styles: useful when the shirt length matters as much as its width.

Look at shoulder width, sleeve length, body width and length together. A size larger in a regular-cut shirt generally widens more than just the chest, and it may not give the same shoulder shape as an oversized tee. For a deeper look, see our T-shirt styles guide or our comparison of fitted and loose T-shirts.

4. Check the size chart for that garment

Never treat a letter size as a universal measurement. A medium from one brand may differ from another, and even two styles by the same brand may have different patterns. Product-specific charts are more useful than general assumptions about “true to size”.

1. Find a T-shirt that already fits the way you want and lay it flat without stretching it.
2. Measure across the chest at the points specified by the product chart and check the body length from its stated starting point.
3. Compare those figures with the Size Guide for the exact product. Note whether the chart gives garment measurements or body measurements.
4. Consider the intended fit and the manufacturer’s measurement tolerance. If you are between sizes, decide whether you prefer more or less room.

For a group order, collect sizes by specific style, not just a list of generic S, M and L requests. Ask wearers to check that style’s chart, especially if you are mixing unisex, ladies and kids garments. Our size and fit guide explains the measurement steps in more detail.

5. Understand GSM without judging quality by a single number

GSM means grams per square metre of fabric. It describes fabric weight, not the total weight of the T-shirt. A lighter fabric may feel airy and drape closely; a heavier one may feel more substantial or hold a structured shape. Fabric composition, knitting, yarn, finish and garment pattern also affect the result.

As a rough guide, some lightweight tees sit around 130–160 GSM, everyday midweight cotton tees often sit around 160–190 GSM, and heavier fashion styles may be 200 GSM or more. These are descriptive ranges, not grades of quality. For example, a well-made lightweight active tee can be exactly right for sport, while a dense heavyweight tee may suit a boxy merchandise look. Compare examples on the product pages and read our detailed T-shirt weight guide if GSM is a key decision.

6. Choose colour and plan the print together

The garment colour is part of the finished design. Dark fabric, light fabric and strongly coloured fabric each affect how artwork is perceived. Check the contrast of small text and fine details at the intended print size. A soft pastel logo on a similar-coloured tee may look understated in a mock-up but difficult to read at a distance.

Think about print placement as well as colour. Seams, pockets, curved areas and smaller garments can limit the practical space for artwork. An oversized tee does not automatically increase the maximum print size available on a product. If you need a large front image or sleeve print, confirm that placement on the chosen listing before building the artwork around it.

Fabric and print method also interact. We use the method appropriate to an eligible garment and design; DTG and DTF have different strengths, and polyester or stretch fabrics can need specific settings and testing. Our DTF versus DTG versus screen printing guide explains the options. If you supply your own design, check the print-ready artwork guide before ordering. A sharp on-screen preview cannot repair a small or blurred source image.

Finally, compare the product’s care instructions with how the shirt will be used. A frequently washed uniform needs a practical care routine; an occasional event tee may have different priorities. Follow the garment label and the supplied print-care instructions rather than assuming all printed shirts can be washed and dried the same way.

7. Use this checklist before ordering

• Wearer and purpose: everyday, uniform, activewear, event or merchandise?
• Fabric: composition, feel, stretch and care requirements checked?
• Fit: is the actual pattern regular, relaxed, oversized or fitted?
• Size: compared with measurements on the exact product chart?
• Weight: does its GSM and construction suit the look and conditions?
• Colour: available in the required sizes, with enough contrast for the design?
• Print: artwork, placement and available print area checked on the chosen listing?
• Group order: are the final size breakdown, quantities and deadline confirmed?

For a larger group or merchandise run, consider ordering a physical sample of the exact style first. It lets you judge fabric, colour and fit in person before committing to all the sizes. See our bulk custom T-shirt guide for the other details to settle before a group order.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best fabric for an everyday T-shirt?

Many people like cotton for everyday wear because of its familiar feel, but there is no single best fabric. Consider the climate, the way you wash the shirt, whether you need quick drying and which specific garment feels comfortable to you.

Is a heavier GSM T-shirt always better quality?

No. GSM measures the weight of fabric per square metre. Yarn, knitting, construction and finishing also matter. A lightweight tee may be the better choice for exercise, while a heavier one may suit a structured look.

Should I size up for an oversized fit?

Choose a product designed as oversized if you want that silhouette. Sizing up a regular tee can change the length and width without producing the same shoulder or sleeve shape. Compare the product measurements with a shirt you already like.

How do I choose sizes for a group?

Choose the garment style first, share its product-specific size chart, and collect each person’s size for that style. Confirm colour and size availability before placing the order. For a substantial run, a sample can help the group judge the fit.

Can you print on cotton and polyester T-shirts?

We offer eligible cotton, polyester and blended garments with custom printing, but the suitable method and settings depend on the exact product and design. Choose a garment offered with custom print and follow its listed placement and artwork requirements.

Does the shirt colour affect my printed design?

Yes. Colour contrast affects how easy your artwork is to read, particularly with fine text and subtle colours. Review the design against the selected shirt colour and check the actual print size before submitting it.

Ready to choose your T-shirt?

Browse blank T-shirts if you want a plain garment, or explore our custom printed T-shirts if you are adding artwork. Compare the fabric details and size chart on each product page before you choose. T Shirts Australia prints eligible custom garments in Coorparoo, Brisbane, with ordering available across Australia.

Originally published by David Seth in 2011 for The Custom T Shirt Shop; reviewed and updated for T Shirts Australia.